Mesh-type strainers consist of a rigid frame and handle, supporting a shallow bowl of fine or coarse mesh. They're typically hand-held and used for straining modest quantities of food. Fine-mesh strainers can also double as sifters, returning lumpy flour or powdered sugar to its original light and fluffy condition. Restaurants use special drum-shaped "tamis" sifters especially for that purpose. A tamis can also be used to puree soft-cooked foods, by forcing them through the fine mesh with a spatula. As with colanders, there's also a special conical mesh sifter used in restaurants. Called a "chinois," it can be used as a strainer or -- like a tamis -- foods can be forced through it to make a puree.